Are you looking for information about
breeding Barbados Blackbelly sheep?
Maybe I Can Help!
My dad always told me to believe about half of what I see and even less of what
I read. Obviously, things are not always as they appear, and these days everyone
seems to be an expert about everything that has an opinion attached to it. Dad
also taught me that if you need advice about something, go to someone who has
been not only doing it for a long time, but is also successful at it before taking
Mike and I do not know everything there is to know, but we have been breeding
and raising Blackbelly sheep since 1996, we are pretty successful at it, and we are
willing to share the knowledge that we have. There is a lot of confusing, incorrect
information circulating about the Barbados Blackbelly sheep. We keep a flock of
about fifty sheep at all times and sometimes more. We, therefore, feel qualified
to offer some advice about what we have actually experienced while breeding and
raising them, in order to help you with your own flock.
BREEDING BACK AFTER LAMBING
There are many things that we are still waiting to get some results on that we
won't be passing along to you until we have that information. One is breeding your
ewes back after lambing. A friend of ours recently told us that ewes will breed
back after eight weeks, provided they are not nursing lambs. So the idea of
putting your ewes back in with a ram before they have weaned their lambs
sounds like an act of futility rather than a good idea. However, once your lambs are
weaned, preferably at eight weeks of age if you are planning to breed back that soon,
you will probably get the results you want.
We waited ten weeks to put our ewes back with a ram. One has a lamb at her side.
We'll let you know how that turns out. We have bred ewes twice in one year before,
but it was in spring and fall, months after they had lambed. Now that I've told you about
what we are experimenting with, let's go back to the beginning.
AT WHAT AGE CAN A EWE BE ACCIDENTALLY BRED
Our experience is that a ewe comes into estrus for the first time as young as four months
of age, but usually five or six months of age is the rule of thumb. We never take a
chance on that. We always remove weanling ewes from exposure to rams by or before
four months so we don't have to deal with a baby having a baby and then Reenie (that's
me) or Popo (that's Mike) have to bottle feed it. Mike and I are way too busy to do that.
We have to hire someone to bottle feed, which cuts into our profit, so unless it is a
lamb out of a bloodline we have to have, we just don't want to do it. Besides, we are
firm believers in the fact that a bottle fed ram should be castrated before he reaches
puberty. Once that fear of humans is lost by being bottle fed, rams can become very
demanding and dangerous if you don't comply with their whims. That also cuts his
chances of being a breeding animal. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
HOW YOU CAN TELL IF YOUR EWE IS IN ESTRUS
Generally, when ewes are housed together, they begin to cycle together. They can
become testy with each other over food, space and any imaginable detail. You will
see them butting heads just like the rams do it. They will paw the ground, back up
a few paces and then charge one another, much more gently, but just like the boys.
They may stand head to head for awhile. Usually, the next clue, is that they will
mount each other. Put her with the ram at that time. After the ram has driven the
ewe for for several hours, she will stand for the ram to breed her.
AT WHAT AGE CAN A RAM BE BRED
Now, that is the question! Rams can, will and do breed at four months of age. Make
no mistake about it. Secure your ram weanlings with good fencing or you will have a
huge surprise in five months. If a ram lamb breaks through a fence and your reasoning
is that you are sure he didn't breed any ewes because he was only in there a minute,
think again. It takes a ram approximately fifteen seconds to breed a ewe. Some
naive folks assume that a ram won't breed his own mother. That information is false.
If a ram can breed one ewe in fifteen seconds, then in one minute, he could have bred
his mother, his grandmother, his sister and his aunt. SECURE YOUR RAMS!
WHAT DO WE RECOMMEND AS A GOOD AGE TO BREED EWES
Now that's more like it. Our rule of thumb is this: if your ewe will be a year old
before the lamb is born, that is probably a good time to breed her, provided she
has grown sufficiently to carry lambs to full term and then care for them. Again,
Reenie and Popo Mike are very busy. If she is so immature that she still looks like
a lamb instead of a ewe, I would recommend waiting until she is a little older.
HOW LONG IS A EWE PREGNANT
The normal gestation for a ewe is 144 to 152 days. That is kind of complicated, so
if you figure five months, that will get you pretty close to due date. Figure five
months and be prepared a week earlier than that and be willing to wait the long
week after the due date if you planned for her to be early. Although, we have
found that if you are not prepared she will deliver early in most cases.
MY RAM WON'T BREED It is surprising how many times I encounter this statement. It may not be a matter of seeing
him breed, but rather are there lambs born five months later. Somebody is doing something
if the lambs are born. We have rams here at Lone Star Farm that we have never witnessed
breeding a ewe, yet they continue to produce lambs year after year. If you are in a hot
climate as we are, they are usually smart enough to breed at night when the temperature
is cooler. We usually run large numbers of rams together, but there are ways of moving
them in and out of the flock so it is safe for all the rams. The rams left behind, not getting
to breed this season, are resentful of the ones who do. There are several ways to
reintroduce them after a leave of absence to be with the ewes. We'll talk more about that
later. Something important to know about rams is the fact that they need a buddy when
they are not with the ewes. Left to their own devices, rams will either get into trouble,
or possibly panic when they can't find their friends. Fences can at times suffer. The video
below was taken after this ram lost sight of his buddy rams for less than one minute. You
can imagine what he might do if expected to stay in a pen alone without other sheep in
sight. Listen to him snort at the idea of being alone.
About a week before she delivers the ewe will pass a mucous discharge that you may
or may not witness. Her milk bag should look like it has milk in it, her teats will be
enlarged but they will be flaccid. As the ewe nears the delivery day itself, her teats
will become firm. We pay particular attention to her when the teats point outward,
they have turned pink in color and her vulva becomes flaccid and pink. Birthing is
imminent at that point. Generally, she will be nesting (digging) in the hay or on the
ground, she will be very restless, moving from place to place. Or when she has
finally settled on a place to lamb, she will be standing up, lying down, standing up
again and digging (pawing the ground). When she begins to have contractions that
are strong enough that you can visibly see her pushing, look at your watch. This
should not go on for more than an hour before you do a physical exam to help
position the lamb if necessary. Honestly, I rarely let more than about thirty minutes
pass if I want to ensure the birth of a live lamb. I know lots of people will disagree,
but I'm going by personal experiences with many different animals. If the mother is
already in labor trying to deliver the baby, you will not be helping too soon. If you
wait, however, you may end up with a dead lamb, or two. I have never had a mother
reject her lamb/lambs because I helped her deliver.
PULLING A LAMB
Have someone stand in front of the ewe holding her head. Wash your hands, put
on a latex surgical OB glove (one that goes to the shoulder), grease up your glove with
KY jelly and proceed to enter the uterus gently, otherwise the ewe may jump over
the head of your helper. The size of your hands determines who is the holder and
who is the helper.
If the ewe has been pushing for awhile and has not produced a lamb, it stands to reason
that she may not be dilated. The cervix will be a tight fit for your hand to get through.
Make your hand as skinny as possible and gently continue. Once you are passed the cervix
and into the uterus, there will be more room to work. But remember, you will be
working blind (you cannot see what you are doing) and with one hand tied behind your
back (only one hand fits inside). You'll have to ignore the fact that the cervix is cutting
off the circulation to your hand and work as quickly as possible. If you start to get
a little squeamish at this point, what will usually help you to get beyond it is the
fact that the lamb, and possibly the ewe, could die without your help. That makes
heroes out of us every time.
The lambs are on the ewe's right side. Every time you have to pull a lamb, because of
the non-sterile environment, it is a good idea to give your ewe a full round of antibiotics
for several days after. If you find the legs of the lambs entangled, feel one leg from the
body down to the foot. If you can fold the leg into a "U" shape, it is a front leg. If the
leg folds into a "Z" formation, it is a hind leg. This will give you information about
whether the lamb is coming head first (which is normal), or rear first (though it is not as
good for the lamb to be born this way, it is an easy delivery for you and the ewe once
the legs are untangled from the sibling). Check to see if the spine is on top or on the
bottom of the lamb. If it is on the bottom, the lamb will have to be turned over or it
will not fit through the birth canal without serious injury. Sometimes it is only one lamb
that is just too large for the ewe to deliver alone, or perhaps it is coming spine first. If
you enter the birth canal and find a large solid object and no feet, the lamb is coming
doubled over spine first and now you have a real problem. You must push the lamb out
of the birth canal back into the uterus to turn it, so it is presenting head first preferably.
Needless to say this is very painful for the ewe. I once had a ewe pass out because the
pain was so great. Tell your helper to hold on tight before you begin the procedure.
Once the lamb is in position, try to loop a small cotton rope, that has been soaked in a
betadine solution, around one foot and then the other so you will be pulling both feet at
the same time with equal pressure, pulling towards the ground, not straight out. The
lamb will be very slippery and so will your greased glove which makes the cotton rope
Okay, for those of you whose palms are beginning to sweat, I think its time to ease the
tension a bit with a tale of a funny experience that Mike and I had birthing lambs. We
apparently had twin lambs whose legs had become entangled and therefore were making
things difficult for mom. I could feel one head and body, but six legs. To make sure
that I was pulling on legs that went to the first lamb in line, I thought I should feel from
the head down to the feet. As my fingers moved across the face coming down towards
the chest, suddenly the lamb began sucking on my finger while still inside its protective
sack. It scared me so bad, I jerked my hand out of the poor ewe who almost jumped
over Mike's head knocking him backwards off his bucket. We eventually delivered two
live lambs. We are still laughing about that experience years later. Okay, back to the
business at hand.
Once the lamb/lambs are born and settled, keep an eye on momma. She should be
contented after she passes the placenta. If she acts restless, or if she is dripping blood
from the vulva, or if she refuses to claim her lambs, she could be in trouble. Many things
could be happening at this point. She could still be having small contractions to pass the
placenta or another lamb. Usually, after the placenta is passed the cramping stops so she
will then accept her lambs. Always watch to be sure the ewe has passed the placenta.
She could have a damaged uterus from the traumatic birthing, or she could be trying to
have a third lamb. With all the drama and trauma from having the first one or two, the
next lamb could be dead, so prepare yourself for that outcome. There is nothing more
exhilarating though, than helping her deliver a triplet that is alive.
You may ask why I haven't suggested calling a veterinarian by now. I can't even count
the number of times that I have done just that to hear the vet tell me he's hours away
and I'll have to do it myself, or "I don't work on sheep." You may hear that many times
before you find your prince (veterinarian), hopefully before your ewe needs him.
REINTRODUCING A RAM INTO THE RAM PASTURE AFTER BREEDING
This can get a little tricky and dangerous if you are not careful how you do this. The
other rams will know what the breeding ram has been up to by scent. I don't know if
they are actually capable of being resentful that he got to breed ewes and they didn't,
or if they just don't recognize him because of his scent after being with the ladies.
Nevertheless, the first rule of thumb is never put a breeding ram back into a pasture with
more than one ram in it. You will need to gradually introduce him to the group to keep
him, or them, from being injured. Trust me on this, they will fight. If you have a small
paddock, or even a stall to put him in with another ram, that will work. The smaller, the
better, as they will have less room to move around. I have seen brothers who grew up
together come back together and almost kill one another over this, so please pay close
attention. You cannot put a breeding ram back into a pasture with a multitude of other
rams. They will all gang up on him. They will butt him head on, from the rear and from
both sides simultaneously. He won't have a chance. Put the breeding ram in a neutral
pen (or paddock) first, then bring one of your other rams into the pen with him. We
want the second ram to be a little unsure of himself by bringing him into a neutral area
that is not so familiar to him. Let's get him off guard a little bit, then all of his attention
won't be focused on the breeding ram. They will sniff each other like they have never
known each other before today. Ridiculous, I know, but that's how they are. After they
are settled with each other, bring in another ram from the ram pasture. Now you have
three in the pen. Since the second ram has buddied up with the breeding ram, that will
leave the third ram wondering just whose side he's on. Keep them guessing and give
them plenty of hay to distract them. Note: I said hay, not grain. We don't want to give
them something that is so yummy it will cause a fight. Think of calling three five-year-old
children in for lunch. If you set a sandwich in front of them, they will usually eat
without incident, but if you throw twenty pieces of candy on the table, the fight is
on. Just offer hay, please. Let the three rams become acquainted again. Then, bring
in three more rams from the pasture. Let those six get reacquainted. Now you have
six rams who more or less know each other. You can now take your gang of six rams
and put them back into the ram pasture with the rest of the houligans.
Let's say you are breeding three rams to three separate groups of ewes. When breeding
time is over, put those three rams together in the pen. Let them settle, then bring in
a group of three more. It shouldn't take but a day or so for them to buddy up again.
The small paddock is used to keep them from backing up fifty feet then charging each
other with the intent to do bodily harm. Also, we have found that if you start this procedure in the evening, by dark they will go to sleep. When they wake up, having slept with each other overnight, everyone's scent has mingled. Now we are one big happy family of rams again. We have kept as many as twenty-five rams together like this with no incidents.
______________________________________________________________ We hope you will find this information helpful and that it will clarify any erroneous
information that has been floating around in cyber space. If you have questions,
please contact Becky. Call (936) 372-3332 or email email@example.com.